Here’s a recent pic from The Sartorialist that emphasizes effortless, yet subtle cool.  What makes this look, it’s the cut of the jacket, the rolled up sleeves, the cut of the pant and the sockless look, but it’s really tied together with the scarf and watch.  The look is fashion forward but doesn’t try too hard.

Do You Take Insults Personally?

It’s hard not to, especially if it comes from your friends or someone with authority.  If you do this the biggest problem you’ll have is that you’ll second guess what you’re doing.  If you’re not sure what you’re doing works or is “you”, the second someone insults you it will reinforce that.  This is where most guys stop any change they made and revert back to where they were.

What people don’t tell you when they insult you is their (the insulter’s) fear of change.  Half the time people insult you because they are shallow.  The other half the time, friends and others insult you because they don’t want you to change, even if it’s for the better.

Do You Take Compliments Personally?

Anybody who gets compliments on what they wear will make them feel good.  It’s rare when that’s not the case especially if it comes from the opposite sex or someone with authority.  But here’s the problem, if you base your self confidence or image of yourself solely on the compliments you receive you are setting yourself up for failure.  

Let’s say you try something new, you go out to the bar and you receive great feedback on how great you look.  Now later that night, a girl comes up to you and says you look like a poser idiot, how do you take it?  Do you assume it’s true and deduct that previous compliments were wrong?  Do you assume it’s false because of all the compliments prior were great.  Or do you weigh the percentage of good compliments vs the percentage of bad compliments? 

Here’s the problem, all of these situations have the same ramifications.  Your image or sense of self is being dictated by what people say about you. 

Warning: Insults And Compliments Are Both Bad

Person A insults you, Person B compliments you.  So who’s justified and who’s not?  How can you tell contrusctive criticsm against regular criticism?  Here’s the deal, both are valuable and both are worthless.  It all depends how you use the information.  It’s all about how you take it.  In both you never want to take it personally and here’s why.  

The Secret To Being Humble

Why do you want to be humble?  Well, humility goes hand in hand with confidence and, don’t tell anyone, it’s the quickest way to gain confidence.  Why is that?  Because humility reinforces your sense of self and solidifies it in your mind.  You become a person who isn’t subject to the winds of change from compliments and insults.  So here’s what you need to say when someone compliments you:  “Thanks”.  And if someone insults you simply change that up a little and say “Thanks”.  It’s really that simple.  You can use the information and critique that people give, but this information should NEVER falter your own perception of yourself.  If you avoid this key mistake, you’ll be on the path to great confidence and style.

No matter your style, your body shape or what look you’re going after a great fitting shirts is key to looking good.  Every man can benefit from shirts that are properly fitted.   Even if you can’t find shirts that fit just right, it’s also one of the easiest things to alter if you get the basics right.

 Get Rid of Puffy Shirts Once and For All
 

When a shirt doesn’t fit it can look puffy or oversized if it’s too large (or skin tight if it’s too small).  Too much material and improper sizing causes these problems. Different labels have different sizings so a medium for one label is not a medium in another. That’s even the case with shirts that have specific sizing measurements. It also depends on the shirt cut, as some are relaxed while others are slim fit. Regardless, you can’t buy by the label alone, you need to try the shirt on and check out all the key points of where the shirt should fit.

The Keys Everybody Ought to Know About Great Fitting Shirts 

Shoulders - Start with the shoulders and make sure the shoulder seam lays exactly atop the natural curve of the shoulder.  This point crucial and cannot be fixed no matter what. (Note where the shoulder seam is in the picture above).

Chest and Waist - These are the next import aspects to a shirt that fits great.  At these two points the shirt should follow the line of the body without being tight while not too large either.  Any extra material here will add extra bulk to your look, no matter if you’re thin or large. 

Sleeves, Neck and Cuff/Wrist - These are dependent on the item (i.e. these sizes don’t really matter on a t-shirt).  If you have a shirt that buttons at the neck, that you would wear buttoned at the neck, make sure the shirt can close comfortable.  Sleeves should come down to at least the knuckle of your thumb which is just below your wrist.  Lastly if you have a shirt that buttons at the cuff (or uses french cuffs/cufflinks) make sure it also buttons comfortably.

Shirt Length - If you are tucking in the shirt, then the shirt length ought to be long enough to do so and touch the top of your thighs.  If the shirt is not going to be tucked in then it ought to touch just below the belt line.  Never mix these two up, as a shirt that’s untucked and is too long looks sloppy, and a shirt that’s too short and tucked in will tend to untuck and also look sloppy.

 Here’s a Quick Way To Get Your Shirts To Fit

If you don’t have the budget to purchase an entire new wardrobe then you can start with the easiest way to get your shirts to fit.  So long as the shoulders of your shirt are the appropriate size you can alter the rest.  You could do this yourself but the truth of the matter is that it’s dirt cheap to do at your local tailor.  Go to your phone book, look up tailors in your area and choose one.  A tailor can take a larger shirt and quickly remove the extra material from chest, torso and arms (and can also shorten sleeves and shirt length).  The great thing about this is that it will perfectly fit YOUR body and not someone else’s. This shouldn’t cost you anymore than 10-30 dollars per shirt (depending on how much you alter it).

Build a Wardrobe You Can Be Proud Of
 

Proper sizing is the best step you can take towards a better wardrobe and when you have more shirts that fit you have more options.  It’s not difficult to see if a shirt fits properly when you purchase it, but it’s also not difficult to alter a shirt either (so long as the shoulders fit).

Hide Your Weight

Layering is the easiest way to cover up any extra pounds (among other things).  If you do it right it’ll make you appear slimmer and not bulky.  It’s all about the fit of the pieces you have and how they go together.  So if if layer with clothes that are large already, you’ll simply look bulky, but if you layer with clothing thats fitted you look slimmer. 

The most important layer is your top layer since it’s the most viewable.  The easiest way to layer is with a blazer jacket, but there are many other options as well like vests, cardigans, or v-neck sweaters.  And if it’s too hot in the summer wear you live make sure to wear THIN material with each of your layers.

Versatility

You can increase the amount of outfits that go together well with simple layering techniques.  Let’s say you have a great pair of jeans or slacks, a graphic t-shirt, a collard shirt and a blazer.  Those 4 pieces can give you 4 combinations (assuming the items of clothing work well together).  Now throw a vest or low v-neck into the mix and you have 8 combinations with only one extra piece.  

Increase Your Personal Style

With the more pieces you can wear and the more variations that are available to you, the more you can really fine tune your style.  Layering is also a great way to bring attention to yourself. Next time you’re out in public, take a while to look around you at other people and notice who looks stylish and who does not.  I’m willing to bet that those who look stylish on average are wearing more pieces.  

Emulate A Look

No matter what style you’re into you can do layering.  The qq look is based on suits, collard shirts, vests and sweaters.  The rocker look is based on leather/jean jackets, t-shirts, vests, accessories.  The preppy look is based on cardigans, collard shirts, sweater vests.  The list goes on, but the important thing is that no matter what your style there’s a type of layering that you can do.

What can you layer with: Here’s a quick list of items you can layer with.

• Jackets - Blazers, leather, jean etc.
• Hoodies
• Vests - Formal or casual
• V-Neck Sweaters - Long sleeves or short
• T-shirts 
• Sleeveless-shirts
• Ties
• Scarves
• Accessories - Bracelets, necklaces, rings and combinations thereof
• Pocket Squares

Both conservative and wild at the same time, this is a great example of personal style.  What really makes this look pop is the combination of the man’s shoes, beard, rolled sleeves and bracelets.  This isn’t a style I’d suggest you take on, but it is certainly a style we all could learn from.

1.  Learn To Love Extended Toe Caps

 The basics of shoes always comes down to the form of the shoe, so start with something that looks great.  An extended toe cap appears longer and pointier than the average shoe which give the shoe a much more sleak appearance.  It is fashion forward and will accent any style or attire.  It can work with a number of looks as well, ranging from the gq look, to the rocker look to a casual look.  A shoe with an extended toe cap is truly a versatile shoe.

 2.  Choose Brown Over Black For Versatility

Speaking of versatile if you want a shoe that will work for nearly all occasions, choose a sleek brown leather shoe, preferably dark.  Brown shoes look good with most suits yet at the same time look great with a pair of jeans, or a pair of khakis or a pair of corduroy jeans.  Dark brown is one of those shoe colors that you don’t have to think about matching them with an outfit, as brown goes with almost everything. 

Black on the other hand can stand out more and doesn’t blend quite as nicely.  Moreover, every non-stylish man commonly wears black leather shoes (when not wearing sneakers).

3.  For Extra Flair, Go With Something Wild

 There are alot of really great brands of shoes out there these days that are doing some interesting and wild designs.  Everything from cool patterns, wild colors, extended distressing and everything in between.  Not only is it a perfect match for jeans but it can make a suit look a little less formal and a little more cool.  A shoe with character can really set you apart from everyone else.

4. Every Man Needs At Least ONE Pair Of White Leather Shoes

A simple and basic white leather shoe will compliment nearly any style and outfit.  They are incredibly versatile but they are not worn by the majority of men.  They are also an automatic style upgrade that bring you more attention.  They look great dressed up or dressed down.

Of all the shoes I wear, my white leather shoes always tend to bring me the most compliments, especially from women.  And remember, you can wear white leather shoes during any season.  Don’t listen to those who say you can’t wear white after labour day.

5. Just Say No To Sneakers

Need I say more?!

This has to be one of my favorite photos lately from The Sartorialist, and it’s a look I stole to make my own.  The first impression I get from this is effortless cool.  A three piece suit can look stuffy, but the light grey with the black vest give a great chic contrast.  Add in the open collar sans tie, peak lapel and the pocket square for extra flair, and the look comes together.  Then, love them or hate them, the wayfarers stir up controversy.  

I’ve done this look with a grey blazer, dark grey v neck sweater and dark wash jeans and it takes this style to an even more casual but cool level.

Even if you’re not into messenger bags, you have to admit that Mark Nason can create one cool bag.  If there’s any bag to own it’s this one.  Of course the style of this bag is the furthest thing from subtle or classic.  It’s in your face and a tad kitsch… and you gotta love it.